How to Make Low-Pressure Aeroponics System – Version 2

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Old Version (v1)

Last year I built a low-pressure aeroponics system with a discarded icing container, and some PVC pipe. It had a submersible pump that sprayed nutrient solution through nozzles inserted in the PVC spray manifold. It worked very well, but there were a few issues I noted. One was it had a very small reservoir, and as a result nutrient solution was depleted rapidly. Secondly, it was hard to change out solution with out disturbing the roots. Lastly I think I the number of spray nozzles was a little overkill. There is a video showing how I made it here.

Design Changes (v2)

The new version has a smaller spray bar, and fewer nozzles. I also used a 11/64″ brad point drill bit size that made it unnecessary to tap the hole. I used two 5-gallon buckets. The internal bucket contained all of the functioning parts. The submersible pump was mounted underneath, and connected to the spray bar through the bottom of the bucket. The bottom and lower third of that bucket had holes drilled in it. The nutrient solution is placed in the second (external) bucket. When the internal bucket is placed,  the solution flows through the holes. This does two things. It allows easy access to the pump for cleaning or replacement, without having to touch the roots. This also makes it very easy to replace nutrients, by simply removing the internal bucket and placing in another bucket that contains fresh nutrient solution. A third benefit is the internal bucket is offset to a greater height because of the under-mounted submersible pump. This allows for more solution to be added at a time.

Materials needed

PVC parts
sched 40 1/2″ PVC pipe –
3 x 1″ long pieces
1 x 7/8″ long piece
2 x 3″ long pieces
2 x 1/2″ couplers
2 x 1/2″ caps
2 x 1/2″ slip 45 degree elbows
1 x 90 deg tee
1 x 1/2″ adapter threaded/slip (screws into the pump) – get at a Lowes or Home Depot

3 x Spray nozzles and 11/64″ drill bit – https://goo.gl/QX4u9j

Submersible pump
1 x EcoPlus 728310 Eco 396 Submersible Pump, 396GPH http://goo.gl/n4cmuL (I mentioned in the video that I had seen one by Apollo Horticulture for 10.00, but don’t see that available at the time of this posting.)

Drill bits for internal bucket – These don’t have to be exact, the 11/16″ is what I used. It needs to be either exactly the diameter of the 1/2″ PVC pipe or just under.
1/4″
11/16″

2 x 5 gallon buckets – https://goo.gl/qUS06c (You can get these cheaper at big box stores)

1 x 5 gallon bucket lid Approx. 2.00 in box stores
1 x 3″ net pot https://goo.gl/NUZKIu
1 x 3″ hole saw – https://goo.gl/TPehGL
OR
*You might want to modify this design using a 6 inch bucket lid net pot. That would offer a little more stability and save some work and money. (6 inch net pot – https://goo.gl/8nlTAS) If you use this you won’t need the regular bucket lid, 3 inch net pot or 3 inch hole saw.

Supporting media
Clay pebbles/hydroton – https://goo.gl/pKFvKk
*alternately you could use coco coir chips instead – https://goo.gl/q5k8Dl

Power cord management
1 x 1 7/8″ hole saw – https://goo.gl/dRz3GN
1 x 2″ neoprene cloning collar – https://goo.gl/sb3bMe (This also has the spray nozzles needed, listed above, but doesn’t included the 11/64″ bit)

See videos below for steps to produce

Conclusion

Overall this system works very well. Doing over I would have made a couple changes. One, I would use a 6 inch net pot bucket lid instead of attaching a 3 inch net pot to regular bucket lid. Second, I would incorporate supports either coming out of the (larger) net pot or along the sides of the bucket. I will go back and add supports to mine, probably using 1/2″ or 3/4″ PVC gorilla taped around the sides.

Videos

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2017 Grow Update #8 – 4/16/17

It’s getting close to plant out time, and I need to strategize how to get everything hardened off and systems ready for outdoor growing. I want to have everything outside by first week of May, but could probably go earlier if it’s possible.  I have about five plants on the porch now. Those I hardened off with the 400 watt CMH light. They are doing well.

I’ve been prepping outside, sifting out last year’s potting mix. I’m going to reuse my old poly grow bags too. I need to get some plastic and reassemble my drip irrigation system. I also need to few things to setup the fertilizer injector. It’s going to be a busy couple of weeks.

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Wick Systems Comparison

Which system is better?

Introduction

The other day I showed a wick system design using a 5 gallon bucket, and wick attached to a 6 inch net pot. To test the effectiveness I need a control setup to compare against. For this I’ll use a 5 gallon self-watering container. This is a known and tested design used by many growers. It is essentially another version of wick system, but the potting mix is part of the wicking mechanism.

Control System

The control system is made from two 5 gallon buckets, one nested in the other. The internal one has 1/4″ holes drilled in the bottom to form an aeration screen, and a 3 inch hole in the center for a three inch net pot. Potting mix is filled down into the net pot and the rest of the internal bucket which contains the plant. The bottom bucket has a 1/4″ overflow hole that is placed 1/2 – 3/4 inch below the bottom of the internal bucket to prevent nutrient solution from touching the bottom. This is a proven design similar to commercial Earth box systems.

Comparison

The principles of both designs are the same, just the method of wicking are different. I will setup the traditionally wick system with another White Devil’s Tail, which is the same age as the one in the other system. Both will be fed the same hydroponic nutrients. Both with receive the same amount and type of lighting. They will initially be inside under a 400 watt CMH light, and will go outside later.

Conclusion

If the new version works the same or better, I will use it for future self-watering setups. The advantages are having a much larger reservoir, and requiring less potting medium. Also only one bucket is needed instead of two. Overall the net pot wick system would be less expensive to setup than the traditional self-watering container.

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Chemilizer Fert Injector Unboxing

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Hydro Systems Chemilizer

New Fert Injector

I just received my Hydro Systems Chemilizer fertilizer injector to use with my drip irrigation system this year. I also bought a by-pass assembly. This will make it easy to remove or turn off the injector if needed by adjusting the shutoff valves.

Why I chose this model

I was debating between the Chemilizer, MixRite and Dosatron models. I choose the Chemilzer because of its price point, low-flow capability and ability to isolate the ferts from the pump mechanism. It also does not require filtration. You could pump pond water through it and it’d be fine. I’ll be filtering mine anyway, since it’s on a drip system.  Plus there is a filter on the bypass assembly, in addition to the inline filter I already have. Another bonus with the Chemilizer is the cost to maintain and replace parts as needed is relatively inexpensive. It has a two year warranty too, instead of a one year offered by the other brands.

Where I purchased it

I bought the Chemilizer and bypass through Nolt’s Greenhose and Supplies. You have to look at their PDF, and order by phone, but the people there are friendly and knowledgeable. They also have the best prices and selection and don’t overcharge on shipping.

How I will use this

I plan to install and use this with the drip irrigation system that I purchased from Drip Depot (another great company). I’m planning to mount the injector and by-pass to the top of a hand cart (dolly), and strap a 5-gallon bucket reservoir to the bottom of the cart. This should hold it up off the ground and make it easy to re-position as needed. I got the idea of this from another product that Nolt’s sells to compliment the Chemilizer. They had a nicer looking storage res, but the the hand cart looked like one you could get anywhere.

Ferts

I will use Dyna-Gro 7-9-5 plant food. The reason is, it is an all-in-one solution and I can use with just one fert injector.  If I used my Masterblend, Epsom Salt and Calcium Nitrate  mix,   I’d need two fert injectors to keep the Calcium Nitrate concentrate separate, which would take my system way over budget. I’ve heard great things about Dyna-Gro. I’ll keep using Masterblend for everything else.

Follow-up

I’ll post updates and videos on how this works throughout the season. Please subscribe to my YouTube channel to see bi-weekly video updates showing the progress.

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2017 Grow Update #7 – 4/2/17

Overview

This update is for all my peppers, herbs, and other edibles as of April 2, 2017. I currently have plants outside on the porch, in my kitchen and in the basement. The plants continue to do well a few issues but I’m managing it.

Porch

The three plants on the porch are Yellow Chiltepin, in a Kratky container, Thai Dragon and Tien Tsin, both in self-watering buckets. They are doing fine, the Thai Dragaon and Tien Tsin look a little rough, partly do to high winds blowing them over, and adjusting to outdoors. Overall they look good, both have pods. The pods on the Thai Dragon are ripening.

Kitchen

The kitchen plants look great, except having some issues with the Aji Painapple mother plant. I think the problem is over-fertilization. I changed out the solution with weaker strength nutrients. I also added an air stone (although probably unnecessary). The Jay’s Red Ghost Scorpion cross/mutation? f2 is looking awesome. The plant from last year was one of the largest and most fruitful of any I grew. The pods were rounder with short tails, looked more like Scorpion, almost resembled Butch T Scorpion. I’m going to keep growing it out as it was one of my favorites of 2016.

Basement

The basement plants look good. The ones currently under the 400 watt CMH are the Jamaican Hot Chocolate and two White Devil’s Tails, each in a different version of 5 gallon wick system.  There are also a couple small wick cups placed on one of the buckets, a Malagheta and Aji Painapple cone. The ones in the grow tent are doing well. Most are wick cups that are wicking from solution in a 10 gallon tote. There are a few others placed around in self-contained wicking cups. Mostly peppers, but there are a few cukes, a Sour Gherkin, and a tomato.

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How to Setup a Kratky Herb Garden

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Introduction

The Kratky herb garden is easy to build and use, allowing you to enjoy fresh herbs any time of the year. It requires no electricity (aside from lighting) or pumps. You can start seeds directly in it, or transplant seedlings from other systems.

Materials needed

Steps to produce

  1. Take one of the AeroGarden baskets and mark holes on the tote lid for where you will drill. Try to keep them as evenly spaced as possible. For a small 4.5 gallon tote, I recommend using no more than eight.
  2. Using the drill and hole saw and drill out holes where marked.

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Wick System Experiment using a 5 Gallon Bucket

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Summary

Seeing the positive results of my small wick system cups, I decided to experiment with an up-scaled version on a White Devil’s Tail pepper, which had been growing in a small Kratky setup.

Materials Used

Note: This is an experiment, and at the time of this post I can’t attest to how well it will work or not. I’ll post updates on how it does.

Assembly

  1. Insert the strip of cloth through the bottom of the net pot about 4 inches.
  2. Drill a one inch hole in the net pot lid and insert 3/4″ pipe.
  3. Drill a 1/4″ overflow hole in the side of the bucket about an inch below where the bottom of the net pot will be. Ensure that the nutrient solution will not touch the bottom of the net pot.
  4. Put plant in net pot with potting medium and water in.
  5. Rinse bucket and fill with nutrient solution to just below the overflow hole.
  6. Place the plant under grow light.

Conclusion

I’m hoping that the constant feed for the plant combined with large reservoir should work out well for the plant, and for me (not having to water every day). Please see the video below to see how this was put together.  I will post updates here and on YouTube showing how it does. Subscribe to my channel to get notifications of new updates for this and other projects.

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2017 Grow Update #6 – 3/19/17

Grow update #6

Herb garden and peppers

Basement Plants

The Jamaican Hot Chocolate, Thai Dragon and Yellow Chiltepin look great.  The Helios Hab in the low-pressure aeroponics system has grown a lot in the last two weeks. I’m planning to move it from the grow tent, and place under the 400 watt CMH light. Not sure what I’ll put in the grow tent, maybe another round of lettuce.

Upstairs Plants

AeroGardens

The AeroGarden Sprout still has the seed starting deck, I planted some non-pepper seeds last week, and some have come up. Two cukes, Lemon and Teshcha F1, Sungold tomato, Sour Gerkin, and Tiny Tim tomato have sprouted. Waiting on golden yellow squash and Gretel Eggplant.

The AeroGarden Bounty only has the Aji Painapple, which is starting to produce fruit.

The AeroGarden Classic 7 has more Painapple clones, and had a Black Bhut, which has transplanted to a wick cup. It also has a few small pepper sprouts.

Cup transplants

About half of the plants transferred to cups are using the double-cup method, and the rest are in cup wick systems. The wick method cups seem to be performing a little better, and don’t have to be filled as often.

Others

I started six Tiny Tim Tomatoes in a Kratky coffee container. Also made a Kratky herb garden, which has Cinnamon Basil, Italian Basil, Catnip, Sage, White Sage, Rosemary, Mugwort and Lemon Balm.

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How to Make a Micro Self-Watering Wick System from Styrofoam Cups

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Styrofoam Wick System

Styrofoam Wick System inside bottom

Introduction

This is a very small scale version of other self-watering wick systems similar to Earth Boxes. This tiny very I will describe uses the exact same principles as the EarthBox, and can be easily scaled up. It is very easy and inexpensive to make. You can use mostly (or entirely if you get creative) recycled materials. The system in my example here is ideal for plants ranging from spouts or seedlings up to small plants that will fit in a 20 ounce cup (for this example). The plant and supporting medium (potting mix, coco fiber, etc…) will sit at top of the cup inside a 3 inch net pot. A strip of wicking material will touch the supporting medium and affix to the bottom of the net pot. It will hang down and wick nutrient solution up from the bottom to the plant. The plant will draw water/nutrients as it needs. Once it is setup, the grower will need to fill the reservoir as needed.

Materials Needed

  • 2 x 20oz Styrofoam cups
  • 1 x 3 inch net pot
  • Potting mix (or similar) enough to fill the net pot and upper part of the Styrofoam cup
  • A 1/4″ – 1/2″ wide strip of wicking cloth a little less than the length of one of the cups. Strips of microfiber cloth worth really well. Just test a piece first by holding the end in some water and see if it wicks up to the top.
  • Knife
  • Nutrient solution – Mix to a strength appropriate for the plant. To start with, use something no stronger that what the plant was in previously.

Steps

  1. Cut the inside bottom out of one of the Styrofoam cups.
  2. Tie one end of the wick cloth to the bottom of the net pot, making sure some of the cloth is exposed to the inside of the net pot.
  3. Push the net pot down into the top of the cup that you cut the bottom out of.
  4. Determine the distance from the bottom of the net pot and bottom of the Styrofoam cup that it is in. Then add to it the offset between the bottom of the two cups when one is placed inside the other.
  5. Make a mark of the combined lengths on the outside cup (one that doesn’t have the bottom cut out) from the bottom. Then make a mark below that about 1/2″. This second line (lowest one) is your max fill line. This will allow an air gap between the bottom of the net pot and the top of the nutrient solution. If the nutrient solution is too high and touches the net pot, the plant will drown.
  6. Transplant your seedling or small plant into the top of the inside cup and make sure to water it in.
  7. Fill the bottom cup with nutrient solution up to the max fill line determined above.
  8. Place the cup that contains the plant and wick into the cup that has the nutrient solution, making sure the wick hangs down into the solution.
  9. Place the plant under a grow light.

Follow-up

Periodically lift the inside cup out and check the nutrient level, adding more as needed. As the plant grows it will consume at a faster rate, so you’ll need to check and fill more frequently. You could optionally place the inside cup or cups into a tray and fill up to the max fill line. You’ll just need to make a few small holes in the bottom of the plant cup up to the fill line so that nutrient solution that’s in the tray can enter. If you use this method you won’t need the bottom cup.

Alternatives

As soon in my video, you can use other materials to craft small self-watering wick systems.  One example is a large 32 ounce cup with holes make in the lower portion and wick attached. This is placed in a 20 ounce up, and it leaves plenty of room for nutrients. Another example is a plastic ocean spray bottle cut in half with holes drilled in the nozzle end and in the cap. Wick is tied through the cap and this is inverted into the lower part of the bottle. The point is you can be creative and use what you already have if you don’t have the exact materials mentioned above. All of these examples make excellent and effective wicking systems.

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How to Clone Peppers Using the AeroGarden – Easy and Reliable Method

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Introduction

This method of cloning peppers (and most other plants) is very easy, cheap and effective. It requires no special rooting hormone.

Materials needed

  • Sharp snips or razor blade for cutting stem and leaves (disinfected)
  • Scissors for cutting the sponge material
  • Nutrient solution – If using the AeroGarden nutrients, use the strength you would for everything else. If mixing your own, use a little less than full strength. If unsure, do a trial run first, before committing all of your cuttings. Information on mixing your own nutrients can be found here.
  • Net cup/pot/basket – If using the AeroGarden just use a white basket like the ones that seed kit pods have. You can buy just the baskets from AeroGrow or Amazon.
  • Sponge material – For AeroGarden, this can be the peat based kind that come with seed pot kits, or something similar like the Park Seed Biodome sponges. This is what I use. Rock wool should work fine as well. For non-AeroGarden or Kratky just use something that will fit the net pot/cup/basket. You can use the AeroGarden baskets and sponges too if you want. Again, that’s what I use.
  • Container – For non-AeroGarden or Kratky use any food safe container that will hold water. The top needs to have a hole that can fit the plant basket. The AeroGarden baskets fit really well in containers that have 1.5 inch openings.
  • AeroGarden (although you can improvise applying the same principles). I use the following in my video:

Steps

Prepare sponge material and container

  1. Cut the sponge material lengthwise down the center (not all the way through) so that it can be opened up and folded around the stem.
  2. Make sure the AeroGarden or Kratky vessel contain nutrient solution. For the Kratky method the solution will need to touch the bottom of the sponge material by 1/4 to 1/2 inch. The solution will wick to the top via capillary action. For AeroGarden just fill to the max level you normally would use.

Prepare cutting

  1. This seems to work best with a relatively young, tender side shoot (sucker). The bottom will need to be just under a node at a 45 degree angle. Initially cut a little ways below that.
  2. Cut off the first few leaves from the bottom. Cut any larger leaves off or in half. Make sure there are no buds or blooms present. Cut at a 45 degree angle just below the bottom node.
  3. Spread the sponge material apart with one hand and lay the bottom part of the cutting inside. Close the sponge, folding around the stem.
  4. Place sponge in the basket/cup/pot and put in the growing system.

Follow-up

Within a few weeks start checking for roots. Just lift it out and look for any roots coming out of the sponge material. Once you see this you’ll know the cloning has been successful.

After the roots have grown some you can leave it in there, or transplant it to something else.

Video of my process:

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