I inverted the lid to gain more set up. I set an unused 6″ net pot in the center of the lid and drew a line around it. I free-handed a second internal line about 2″ inside the first circle. This marks where to cut.
I drilled two pilot holes on opposite sides of the inner circle and used a jigsaw to cut this out. I could have (carefully) used a utility knife instead.
I drilled two 1/4″ holes for the airline tubing, evenly spaced on each end (long side) of the tote. This is for the airline tubing.
I spray painted the lid white and let dry.
I cut my airline to the length I needed and inserted each one through the two holes I drilled and attached the 18″ air curtain tubes underneath.
I added 15 gallons of water, then mixed in my nutrients. Following the recommended strength on the package. In my case, I measured 2 tsp/gallon of Flora-Nova Bloom.
I moved the plant from its 5-gallon home and set it in the 27-gallon tote. I drilled two sets of two holes on each side of the net pot and secured to the lid using zip ties.
Horticulture Lighting Group sent me an HLG-100 3000K light for review.
Product description from HLG: HLG 100 uses our custom designed High-efficiency white light Quantum Boards. With a total of 192 Top Bin Samsung LM561C S6 LED’s, this fixture produces 15,000+ Lumens with just 96 Watts of power. Equivalent to 200W T5 or 250W CFL output or 200W metal halide. Lamp. Includes: LED Board, Hanger, Non-Dimmable Meanwell Power Supply with USA NEMA 1-15p plug. Checkout HLG 65 for a similar Lamp with less Power. 4000K recommended for Veg/Greens/Flowering. 3000K for supplement light.
I have this setup over an existing plant, which was a propagated clone of an unknown Lightning Mustard Hab cross. The plant is in a 27 gallon DWC setup, in a 4×4 grow tent.
This had a little bit of floral and bitterness while chewing, turning slightly sweet. Had harsh hiccups up front, not much salivation, mostly dry mouth. Had searing hot coal type back of the throat, then moving forward. I had no cap cramps or other stomach issues from it.
Dehydration is one of the best ways to preserve your pepper harvest. After a while though, exposure to air will lessen the shelf life of what you have worked so hard to save. I have found that vacuum sealing after drying preserves the peppers indefinitely.
First, dry the peppers in the dehydrator. When you start the process of drying, go ahead and wash up the jars, rings and lids you’ll need. Even if using brand new jars, wash them anyway. Also use soap when washing the lids, this will help the seal perform better. Towel dry, then set out to air dry while the dehydrator is running.
Let the peppers dry until they are beyond cracker crisp. To test this, crush a piece between your fingers. It should crumble easily. Wear gloves if handing very hot peppers.
Let them cool, and place the dried pods in clean, dry jar. If you don’t care about keeping the pieces fully intact, you can press them down into the jar to fit more if needed.
Place a clean lid on top of the jar and push the jar sealer attachment over it. Make sure the sealer attachment is attached to the accessory hose, and it is attached to the Foodsaver. press the accessory button on the Foodsaver. The vacuum process will stop when the jar is sealed. you can then remove the jar-sealer attachment. The lid should be on tight. You can optionally screw on a jar ring, but it is not necessary.
I have read other reviews on the Jar-sealer attachment saying the wide mouth size works better. I have not tested the regular mouth to share any experience with them. Some of the other reviewers did mention that if you use the regular mouth and have trouble, you can add a second lid, this somehow helps. I’ve had zero issues using the wide mouth lids.
I’m surprised how well this light is doing for growing. It is not designed to be used as a grow light but does a decent job of it. I’m getting lots of nice roots and leaf development, and even fruit! See video below to see the progress.
Sansi sent me their 50 watt LED floodlight for evaluation. This light isn’t designed for growing purposes, but I am testing it for growing.
Although marketed as 50 watts, actual power draw was less than that, around 40 watts. It has 3500 lumens and color temp is 5700K. The PAR readings I took show a really high level very close to the light but dissipates quickly over a few inches distance.